Keala Kennelly is the 2x winner of the Billabong XXL Girls Best Performance award and a badass big wave surfer. She was asked by ESPN magazine recently how she pulls off riding some of the heaviest barrels and lives to talk about it.

"I've been through some gnarly things - smashing my face into a reef, two wave hold-downs, so I'm now more calculated about taking risks. Some days I sit on the beach and don't like how I feel or what I see. Something just isn't right. When I was younger, going out was about bravado. But now I'm like, "Know what? I'm cool. I'll sit this one out. Confidence comes and goes, you just have to capitalize on the moments when you're feeling good."

Good advice.